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Wednesday, April 3, 2024

Seventeen Cotton Is Now an International Fashion Center 2

Shanghai No. 17 Cotton Textile Factory, or Seventeen Cotton for shorthas been part of our family history. Two factory locations, the South Mill and North Mill, were separated by Yangshupu Road, a busy thoroughfare running east to west in the city of Shanghai. Seventeen Cotton was a major employer for several generations in our family. My paternal and maternal grandfathers both worked and retired from the North Mill, while my parents, my little aunt's husband, and cousin worked, retired, or prompted from the South Mill. My father's elder brother who used to work in the North Mill too was transferred in the 1950s to Xian, as part of the governmental efforts to foster and strengthen heavy and light industries in less developed provinces and cities.

Our experience with Seventeen Cotton is at once bitter and sweet. On the one hand, it provided us with an ample and stable income, for my grandparents were strong with their technical skills, and my parents were known for their managerial capabilities. On the other hand, it doggedly followed national trends in various ideological and political movements, to persecute and purge its employees, especially those middle managers. In the early 1950s, my maternal grandfather was forced to confess imaginary crimes, forcing the whole family to pull together their money, and gold and silver to pay back the requisite phantom bribery. When he was eventually proven innocent, the currency was returned, but not the precious gold that flowed directly into the government vault. The unfortunate incident became a bone of contention among family members, totally ruining his amicable relationship with his stepson's family. The grandfather did not fare better either in the 1960's when the Cultural Revolution started. As a section manager with certain executive power, he automatically became an "enemy of people". Relieved of all administrative duties, my grandfather was on long-term sick leave with reduced pay for more than a decade, until he reached the age of 60 when he could retire. Two years later, he had been diagnosed with late stage brain cancer, and passed away within six months.

Compared with my maternal grandfather who had joined a couple of affiliations of the Kuomingtang, due to his position at the North Mill, my parents had a relatively easier time, with their newly-minted careers in the 1950s. Like many promising young people then, they were duly educated and promoted through the evening school run by Seventeen Cotton and outside professional programs. Like my grandfather, their careers reached a stalemate in the mid-1960s, especially after the breakout of Cultural Revolution. They were thrown into all kinds of political currents, and labelled with diverse anti-revolutionary tags. Being a pupil of the elementary school attached to Seventeen Cotton, I had the chance of visiting and work practice in the same factory regularly, as part of curriculum requirements. At the beginning, I really enjoyed those extra curriculum activities. I loved the food in the factory dining hall. Different from our usual family meals, the factory food had a great variety and selection to choose from. I liked my work in #4 Weaving Workshop, where we paired ourselves with different workers. My supervisor was impressed with my swiftness and accuracy in joining yarns. During the break time, I would sneak out to visit my parents and watch them in real action. Once I saw my father supplying workers with heavy bags of cotton. I was shocked to see him in work clothing outside his office. On another occasion, I went to the #2 Weaving Section. As soon as I entered the insulated door, I was greeted with a familiar voice. My mother was holding a meeting attended by at least a few hundred people. She was so calm and eloquent that I felt an immediate pang of guilt, as if I had intruded on her personal and professional space.

My idyllic time at Seventeen Cotton did not last very long. In our fifth grade, we went to the South Mill as usual. The moment we queued to enter the gate, I saw big letters splashing on the ground in front of the factory administrative building on the left side. There were big-character posters hanging on the walls too. They were all specifically pointing to my mother, accusing her of being a spy, and loyal lackey of the Kuomingtang. I was blindsided with this sudden change of political wind. Meanwhile, it dawned on me that my life would never be the same again. Before long, some unobtrusive classmates became aggressive and would mock me at my parents' expense. I found myself apprehensive of those regular factory visits, dreading that those big letters and posters would reappear.

Seventeen Cotton Is Now an International Fashion Center 1

Last month, Brother Ying shared with my sister Hui and me a year-old article entitled 《曾经的’万人大厂’,蝶变为‘时尚地标’》(= "Once a 'Big Factory with Ten Thousand People', Metamorphosed into a 'Fashion Landmark'") . It was a story about how the Shanghai No. 17 Cotton Textile Factory had been morphed from the largest textile factory in the city of Shanghai into an international fashion center.

It was such an exciting article that I promptly shared it with my WeChat Group of Language Training Class. As usual, it sank like a dead rock into the deep sea. It dawned on me once again that such news was way too low-brow for my high-achieving classmates to patronize, especially as it was about Yangpu, one of the lower east-end districts in the city of Shanghai. Successful people should avoid such places like a plague.

Undeterred by the silence, we three siblings were heartily discussing what Shanghai No. 17 Textile Mill had meant to us and our family. In 1922, Nissho Corporation founded its first textile mill in Shanghai, the Nissho Yufeng Textile Co., Ltd., at No. 2866 Yangshupu Road, Yangpu District, along the bank of east Huangpu River. It was a prevailing business practice then in the textile industry to establish its factories in the east end of towns or cities, due to the flow of river from west to east. 

Since its founding in 1922, the Nissho Yufeng had undergone a series of ownership changes. After World War II in September 1945, it was taken over by the Ministry of Economic Affairs of the Kuomintang. The following year, it was controlled by China Textile Co. Ltd. under the new name of China Textile Corporation No. 17 Textile Factory. In 1949, the Shanghai Textile Industry Bureau took control and renamed it Shanghai No. 17 Cotton Textile Factory, or simply Seventeen Cotton. Unlike many other textile mills in Shanghai, Seventeen Cotton boasted the largest areas covering about 181 acres in two factory locations separated across each other by Yangshupu Road, one of the major traffic arteries from the east to the west of Shanghai. The two locations, known as South Mill, and North Mill were maned by more than ten thousand employees. 

During the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), it was one of the strongholds for the Shanghai Workers Revolutionary Rebels led by Hongwen Wang (1935-1992) one of the members of the Gang of Four. With China opening up after the1990s, the textile industry in Shanghai became increasingly irrelevant, and unsustainable as a state-owned enterprise. Owing to the stiff competition from less expensive and more mobile textile workshops or factories outside the city, a total of 37 textile mills were shut down one after another, and Seventeen Cotton was the last mill to close its doors, and moved to Dafeng, Jianshu Province in 2007.

From 2009 to 2013, the Shanghai Textile Group, a mere shadow of the former powerful Shanghai Textile Corporation, embarked on a makeover project for Seventeen Cotton, in order to revive it into a factory Shanghai would need, to keep up with global fashion trends, and to make Shanghai the sixth largest fashion city in the world, after New York, Paris, London, Milan and Tokyo. By 2013, the Shanghai International Fashion Center had officially been completed, with six self-contained parts, i.e., multi-functional show venue, reception club, creative office, boutique warehouse, apartment hotel and catering, and entertainment. 

Because of the original two-part layout of Seventeen Cotton, the Center has conveniently been divided into the South and North Districts. The former's immediate proximity to the Huangpu River is a great advantage with a unique river view, while the latter has been converted into apartments, offices and parking lots, and other catering and entertaining functions. The conversion is a source of pride for the locals and the government alike. The Center has earned a series of awards, such as the 2013 Excellent Unit of Shanghai Industrial Tourist Attraction Service Quality, 2015 National 4A Tourist Attraction, and 2017 Top Ten National Industrial Heritage Tourism Bases. 

Seventeen Cotton is the only surviving entity standing in the same address.

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